Show me your pedalboard and I’ll tell you who you are… 😉
In recent years, the pedalboard has become a signature for many guitarists and often serves as a status symbol – an impression that can certainly be confirmed in conversations with fellow musicians. 🎸
Let’s be honest: a pedalboard is practically a must-have for anyone who brings more than three effects to a gig. It saves time, effort, nerves, and, last but not least, money that would otherwise accumulate over time for the purchase of batteries. And for those who don’t want to spend their time in the workshop, there is now a wide selection of ready-made boards in various designs available, which can be individually equipped without breaking the bank.
However, there are some fundamental considerations that should not be overlooked when setting up a pedalboard, and we have listed them here for you!
Pedalboard: order of the pedals
One of the most discussed topics when it comes to pedalboards is the order of effects. Of course, one can and should experiment at this point, but as a starting point and basic architecture, a relatively clear order has proven to ensure optimal sound even when using multiple pedals simultaneously.
Starting from the guitar, the order looks like this:
- Wah-Wah (Envelope Filter, Touch Wah)
- Whammy Pedal (Octaver)
- Dynamics Effects (Compressor, Limiter)
- Pre-Distortion EQ (Equalizer)
- Overdrive (Booster, Distortion, Fuzz)
- Post-Distortion EQ (Equalizer)
- Pitch-Shifter (Harmonizer)
- Modulation Effects (Chorus, Flanger, Phaser, etc.)
- Delay
- Reverb
- Amplifier Input
If you have an amplifier with an effects loop, then two more cables are added because the first half of the effects pedals used should be placed before the input (preamp), and the second half in the effects loop before the power amp.
Here’s the setup for an amplifier with an effects loop:
a. Guitar
- Wah-Wah (Envelope Filter, Touch Wah)
- Whammy Pedal (Octaver)
- Dynamics Effects (Compressor, Limiter)
- Pre-Distortion EQ (Equalizer)
- Overdrive (Booster, Distortion, Fuzz)
b. Amplifier Input
c. Amplifier Send Jack
- Post-Distortion EQ (Equalizer)
- Pitch-Shifter (Harmonizer)
- Modulation Effects (Chorus, Flanger, Phaser, etc.)
- Delay
- Reverb
d. Amplifier Return Jack
These are the general guidelines. However, there are exceptions that can lead to special sounds. Therefore, experimentation is generally a good thing. For authentic rockabilly tones, for example, it makes sense to place the delay before the overdrive. Since high levels of distortion are not desired in this style, the delay sounds here are not muddy but rather pleasantly dirty. This is how it was done back in the 1950s!
You can also place the phaser before the distortion pedal for dirty phasing effects. Generally, in such setups, it’s advisable not to drive the distortion too high, but as with most things in life, personal taste matters here too.
An equalizer can be placed either before or after the distortion section, depending on the desired sound. Placing it before distortion and overdrive affects the distortion level (e.g., Mid Boost), while placing it after allows for significant manipulation of the distortion sound. If you want a metal-typical mid-scoop sound, be sure to place the EQ behind the distortion pedal.
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Powering your Pedalboard
When choosing a power supply, it depends on the number of pedals and their voltage and current requirements. Typically, most effect pedals are powered by 9-volt direct current (DC). However, some devices may require 12, 15, or 18 volts. Before selecting a power supply, it’s advisable to take stock of each pedal’s voltage and current needs. You can usually find this information in the technical specifications of the pedals, included user manuals, or on the manufacturers’ websites.
Daisy Chain
Once you have everything ready, add up the power requirements of each pedal and then begin the search for a suitable power supply. If you only plan to use a few pedals with low power consumption, a standard power supply (such as Boss PSA 230s or Thomann NT AC/PSA) may suffice. Additionally, you’ll need a daisy-chain cable, a splitter cable that allows you to connect multiple effect pedals to one power supply. The aforementioned power supplies can deliver up to 1000 mA of current. This power supply configuration is the most cost-effective option, but it may lead to ground loop issues in unfavourable circumstances.
Pedalboard: Multi-output power supplies
In such cases, a multiple power supply unit provides a clean and tidy solution. These units typically offer not only greater power output but often also feature galvanically isolated outputs, which help prevent ground loop issues. If you opt for such a model, pay attention not only to the maximum current output but also to the capacity of each individual output. Digital effects typically require more power than, for example, an analog overdrive, and if any output fails to provide sufficient power, it can lead to problems. Many of these multiple power supply units offer not only different currents but also provide various voltage options. Some are even capable of simulating low battery conditions through continuous voltage regulation, which can result in a better sound, particularly with older analog pedals!
Polarity
It has become standard practice for the power connection on pedals to be polarised so that the negative pole is in the center (Center Negative). If you happen to own a power supply with reversed polarity and wish to connect standard effect pedals, you will need an additional cable for polarity reversal.
Connectors
The required standard DC cables with a 5.5 x 2.1 mm (outer diameter x inner diameter) plug are typically included with multi-power supplies. However, certain pedals may require different formats. For example, various versions of the Ibanez Tube Screamers or older Big Muffs may use a 3.5 mm jack for power supply. Some Line 6 devices may require plugs with a larger inner diameter (5.5 x 2.5 mm). It’s essential to test these requirements and acquire the appropriate cables. Some older pedals may not have a power supply connection at all, for which you usually need an adapter cable for a 9-volt battery clip. The Voodoolab PedalPower Plus comes with a wide range of additional cables for such purposes, and these cables are also available individually.
- Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Cable PPBAT
- Rockboard Power Ace Polarity Converter
- Voodoo Lab Current Doubler Adapter PPAP
Pedalboard: Wah-Pedal and power supplies
Be sure not to position the power supply too close or under the Wah-Pedal. Magnetic fields tend to interfere with the coil of the wah pedal, causing humming, regardless of whether it’s galvanically isolated or not. Before securely screwing or adhering an effect onto the pedalboard, always test its functionality and watch out for ground loops. Sometimes, simply shifting a pedal few centimeters can eliminate any buzzing or humming noise.
- Dunlop Cry Baby GCB95 Wah Wah Pedal
- Vox VX V847A Wah-Wah Pedal
- Mooer Envelope Analog Auto Wah
- Harley Benton Custom Line WP-60 Wah
Cables
The effects are positioned in the correct order, a power supply with all adapters is available: now it’s time to wire everything up. Short cables should be used here, preferably space-saving versions with angled connectors. The EBS Flat Patch cables are highly recommended thanks to their insanely flat plugs, allowing the pedals to be positioned more closely on the board: this might even allow for fitting an extra effect or two onto the board compared to using bulkier jack plugs. Before deciding on a board, it’s best to set up your configuration “dry” with cables and all the components it will include to test how much space is needed. If you’re using mini pedals, don’t place them too close together. You should still be able to easily and safely switch them individually, depending on your shoe size and footwear.
Pedalboards
The aluminum rail concept has become increasingly popular with pedalboards. The American manufacturer Pedaltrain was the first to introduce these boards to the market, and similar designs are now available from other manufacturers as well. The board consists of multiple aluminum rails, making the end product extremely lightweight, and pedals are attached to the board using Velcro tape. The base is usually angled, allowing pedals in the second row to be more easily accessible. Another advantage is that often a power supply can be mounted underneath the board, leaving more space on the top for effect pedals.
Cables can also be neatly stored under the pedalboard. The board can be stored either in a lightweight bag or a case. An alternative to the aluminum rail board is a special case where the effect pedals are attached to the floor of the case. The advantage there is that everything is housed in a sturdy case, and after use, you simply need to close the lid. Generally, you should consider whether a case or a bag is more suitable for you. A case provides better protection if the pedalboard is exposed to rough handling on tour, but it weighs more. A much lighter bag makes sense if you frequently transport the pedalboard yourself and rarely hand it over to others.
Secure the pedals to the pedalboard
Securing the effects on the pedalboard is another important aspect to consider. Velcro tape has the advantage of allowing pedals to be swapped quickly, but it doesn’t always hold securely. On some pedalboard surfaces, Velcro tape may not adhere well, and pedals can come loose. When applying Velcro tape, make sure the adhesive surface is clean and dry. Additionally, the board should not be placed upside down during transport; it should always rest on its “feet.”
For those who want the pedals firmly secured, Mounting Plates are the way to go, which are attached via screws. However, this method only works with wooden boards; the aluminum rail system typically utilizes Velcro tape (simple or 3M variants). Some guitarists also secure pedals using cable ties looped around the rails. While this method may not win any beauty contests, it serves its purpose effectively.
Little add-ons!
There is now a wide range of accessories available that can streamline the workflow on your pedalboard and provide solutions to certain issues. For instance, the pedal riser positions pedals in the second row slightly higher, making them easier to reach with your foot. Additionally, the space under the riser offers extra storage room for cables. A Footswitch Topper can be attached to the potentiometer shaft for easier usability. This also allows you to adjust a potentiometer with your foot—for example, if you frequently adjust the gain of your distortion pedal during performances and prefer not to bend down while playing.
Closing words
If your board is built in two rows, the pedals that are most frequently used should always be in the first row. Wire up as much as possible and preferably label the cables to the amp or color-code them to avoid cable madness. There’s nothing worse than having to set up quickly at a festival and wasting precious time because you have to figure out which cable goes into the input and which goes into the effects loop of the amp. Similarly unpleasant is when you’ve finished wiring everything, you strum a chord, there’s no sound, and 5000 people are all looking at you, buddy.
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