Doepfer MBP25 Electronic with 2 Pedal

Electronics Kit with Two Bass Pedals

  • Midi Bass pedal electronics MBP25
  • With two bass pedals PD / 3
  • Connecting cable between MBP25 and PD / 3
  • With AC adapter

Electronics MBP25

  • 6 oval button with integrated LED (as with Dark Time and A-190-4)
  • Dimensions of the entire panel (W x H): ca. 76 x 22 mm
  • 3-digit LED display (19 x 38 mm) to the value display
  • Two connectors for connecting two 13-key bass pedals
  • Pin-compatible with Fatar PD / 3
  • Fully polyphonic
  • Midi In and Midi Out

Bass Pedal PD / 3

  • 13 keys / 1 octave
  • Not dynamic
  • Plastic frame
  • Dimensions (W x D x H): 580 x 380 x 95 mm
  • Distance between the brown keys: about 65 mm
  • Distance between uppermost and lowermost key (CC): 450 mm
  • Key length (visible area) of brown keys: about 240 mm
  • Key length (visible area) of the black keys: about 130 mm

Warning: Delivery without base or casing etc.!

Dalsze informacje

Description MIDI Electronic, Foot Pedal
9 Oceny klientów:
  • 5
  • 4
  • 3
  • 2
  • 1
3.9 / 5.0
  • wykończenie
Aktualnie ten produkt posiada ocenę tylko w innym języku.
Liczba pisemnych ocen 8 Wszystkie oceny
gb Tłumaczenie automatyczne (Pokaż oryginał)
gbOryginalna ocena (Pokaż tłumaczenia)
Wystąpił błąd. Proszę spróbować później.
Łącznie
wykończenie
For the experienced only
04.11.2015
Firstly, the DoepferMBP25 works well, and does exactly what it suggests - it converts keystrokes to midi. However, unlike other Doepfer units, it's midi sockets are on fly cables and not on the board, so be prepared to desolder these so that they can be mounted on the box and re-attach.

The Fatar Keybed is a workable unit, and easy to cut to length. But that also means it's pretty flexible. You need to anchor it very well to a very stiff base. It will need extra anchor points, I used the gaps in the missing black notes to add screw down points.

To remove the extra C, you need to cut through the tracks on the circuit board. That means you have to put fly cables in to replace the missing part of the circuit board. Best way is to scratch some of the green resin off the remaining track and 'tin' the copper, solder the wire from this to the underside of the corresponding component.

Lastly, you must be prepared to remake all the key contact joints on the circuit board. Don't chase individual faults, just resolder the lot. The soldering on both my sets were poor, but resoldering was a complete cure, there were no mechanical issues.Don't let this put you off!

So it's cheap and effective, and not difficult to build - but needs a bit of work.
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